Growing Geraniums 2026: Pelargonium Care & Best Varieties

Geranium types: zonal, ivy, scented and regal

Zonal geraniums — the classic garden standard

Zonal geraniums (Pelargonium × hortorum) are the most widely grown type: upright plants to 12–24 inches tall with rounded leaves marked by a darker horseshoe-shaped zone — hence the name. They produce large, dense flower clusters (umbels) in a wide color range and bloom prolifically from late spring through frost. Zonal geraniums are the workhorses of summer container and bed planting: reliable, vigorous, and available in hundreds of named varieties.

Ivy geraniums — best for hanging baskets

Ivy geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum) have a trailing, cascading habit with thick, waxy, ivy-shaped leaves that tolerate heat and sun better than zonal types. They are the go-to choice for hanging baskets, window boxes, and tall planters where the trailing stems can spill downward 2–3 feet. 'Summer Showers' and 'Cascade' series are popular mixes. In hot climates, ivy geraniums outperform zonal types because their succulent leaves store moisture through intense heat periods.

Scented geraniums — fragrance and culinary use

Scented geraniums are a diverse group grown primarily for their aromatic leaves rather than their flowers. Varieties include rose-scented (P. graveolens), lemon (P. crispum), nutmeg, apple, cinnamon, and coconut, each with a distinct fragrance released when the leaves are touched or brushed. The leaves of rose-scented geranium are used in culinary applications: infusing cream, sugar, and cocktails with a delicate rose flavor.

Regal geraniums — most dramatic flowers

Regal geraniums (Pelargonium × domesticum) have the largest, most spectacular flowers in the genus — large, pansy-like blooms in rich colors with dramatic dark veining or blotches. However, they bloom primarily in spring (not all summer like zonal types) and prefer cooler temperatures — they stop flowering when summer heat arrives. Best for spring container displays in cool coastal or northern climates.

Best geraniums and growing supplies 2026

How to grow geraniums: planting and care guide

1. Plant after the last frost date — geraniums are frost-tender. Wait until nighttime temperatures stay consistently above 50°F before planting outdoors. In most US zones, this means mid-May in the North and April in the South.
2. Choose a location with 4–6 hours of direct sun — geraniums perform best in full sun to partial shade. In very hot climates (zones 9–10), afternoon shade prevents heat stress and extends blooming. In cool northern climates, full sun is ideal.
3. Use well-draining soil or container mix — in garden beds, geraniums prefer loamy, well-draining soil. In containers, use a high-quality potting mix — never garden soil, which compacts in containers. Add perlite (20%) to improve drainage for container growing.
4. Water when the top 2 inches of soil are dry — geraniums are moderately drought tolerant and much more susceptible to root rot from overwatering than to occasional dryness. In containers, check daily in hot weather; water when the top 2 inches feel dry. In the garden, established plants need watering only during extended dry periods.
5. Fertilize every 2–3 weeks with a bloom fertilizer (high phosphorus) or balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength during the growing season. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
6. Deadhead spent flowers regularly — remove entire flower clusters as they fade, cutting the stem back to where it meets the main plant. This is the single most effective technique for continuous blooming.
7. Pinch growing tips every 2–3 weeks on young plants to encourage bushy, compact growth rather than leggy stems.

Geraniums in containers and hanging baskets

Container growing is where geraniums truly excel. A single 10–12 inch pot planted with 1–3 zonal geraniums delivers a summer-long display of color in almost any outdoor situation — patio, balcony, doorstep, or deck. For hanging baskets, ivy geraniums are the superior choice: their trailing stems fill a 12–14 inch basket within 4–6 weeks of planting and create a cascading effect unmatched by other summer annuals.

Key container success factors: always use containers with multiple drainage holes (terracotta is ideal because it wicks moisture), never use saucers that retain water under geranium pots, and position containers where they receive at least 4–6 hours of direct sun. A container that dries out too quickly — especially small 6–8 inch pots in full sun — may need watering twice daily in midsummer heat; upgrade to a larger pot (12+ inches) to reduce watering frequency.

Geranium types comparison table

Type	Growth Habit	Bloom Season	Best Use	Heat Tolerance
Zonal	Upright, 12–24 in	Late spring–frost	Beds, pots, borders	Moderate
Ivy (trailing)	Trailing, 2–3 ft	Late spring–frost	Hanging baskets, window boxes	High
Scented	Bushy, 12–36 in	Spring–fall	Fragrance, culinary, borders	Moderate
Regal	Compact, 12–18 in	Spring only	Spring containers, cool climates	Low

Overwintering geraniums in cold climates

In zones 7 and colder, geraniums (Pelargoniums) cannot survive outdoor winters and must be overwintered indoors. The easiest method for container plants: bring the pot indoors before the first frost. Cut the plant back by half and place in a cool (45–55°F), bright location — a south-facing window in a cool room or spare bedroom is ideal. Water sparingly through winter: just enough to keep stems from shriveling, approximately once every 3–4 weeks. Resume regular watering and fertilizing 4–6 weeks before the last frost to stimulate new growth before moving plants back outdoors.

Common problems: botrytis, aphids and more

Botrytis (gray mold): Gray fuzzy mold on stems, leaves, or flowers — most common in cool, humid conditions with poor air circulation. Remove all affected plant material immediately, improve air circulation by spacing plants, avoid overhead watering, and apply copper-based fungicide if the problem spreads. Botrytis can kill entire plants quickly once established.

Aphids: Small green or black insects on new growth causing distortion and honeydew deposits. Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Natural predators (ladybugs, lacewings) control aphids effectively in garden beds.

Root rot: Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, mushy stems at soil level. Almost always caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Unpot, trim diseased roots, and replant in fresh, well-draining mix. Reduce watering frequency.

Frequently asked questions about growing geraniums

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between geraniums and pelargoniums?

Botanically, the plants sold as "geraniums" at garden centers are actually Pelargonium species — tender perennials native to South Africa, treated as annuals in cold climates. True geraniums (Geranium species) are a separate genus of cold-hardy perennials commonly called cranesbills, with smaller flowers and a completely different growth habit. The common name "geranium" is so deeply embedded in gardening culture that it is used interchangeably with Pelargonium. When purchasing, "zonal geranium" or "ivy geranium" always refers to Pelargonium; "perennial geranium" or "cranesbill" refers to the cold-hardy Geranium species.

How do I overwinter geraniums (Pelargoniums) indoors?

Pelargoniums are frost-tender and must be overwintered indoors in zones 7 and colder. The simplest method: pot up plants before the first frost (or bring in container plants), cut back by half, and keep in a cool but frost-free location (45–55°F) with minimal watering — just enough to prevent the stems from shriveling. A bright but cool spare bedroom, basement with a window, or garage above freezing works well. Alternatively, take cuttings in late summer: root 4-inch stem cuttings in potting mix, overwinter the young rooted cuttings, and plant out in spring.

Why are my geranium leaves turning yellow?

Yellowing geranium leaves have several possible causes. Overwatering and poor drainage is the most common: geraniums are very susceptible to root rot in waterlogged soil. Allow the top 2 inches to dry completely between waterings. Other causes: nitrogen deficiency (fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every 2–3 weeks during the growing season); too much shade (geraniums need at least 4–6 hours of direct sun to perform well); temperature stress from cold drafts or sudden temperature drops; or natural leaf senescence of older lower leaves, which is normal and not cause for concern.

How do I deadhead geraniums to encourage more blooming?

Deadheading (removing spent flower heads) is essential for continuous geranium blooming. As individual flower clusters (umbels) fade, trace the stem back to where it meets the main stem and snap or cut it off cleanly at that point — do not just remove individual flowers from the cluster. This removes the developing seed head, which otherwise signals the plant to slow flower production. Regular deadheading every 5–7 days keeps geraniums in flower from planting through frost. Also pinch growing tips occasionally to encourage bushy rather than leggy growth.

Can geraniums grow from seed?

Yes, geraniums (Pelargoniums) can be grown from seed, though it requires patience. Sow seeds indoors 12–16 weeks before the last frost date — geraniums are slow from seed and need a long lead time. Use a sterile seed starting mix, maintain temperatures of 70–75°F, and expect germination in 7–21 days. Provide supplemental lighting (14 hours daily) for compact, strong seedlings. Seed-grown geraniums often show more variability in color and habit than vegetatively propagated plants from cuttings. Most gardeners find it more practical to purchase transplants or take cuttings from established plants.